Swiss woman drowns in Teklanika River, near 'Into the Wild' bus
by Tim Mowry / tmowry@newsminer.com
Aug 17, 2010 | 16281 views | 34 34 comments | 39 39 recommendations | email to a friend | print
FAIRBANKS — The fact that a 29-year-old Swiss woman drowned Saturday while attempting to cross the Teklanika River on the Stampede Trail doesn’t surprise Jon Nierenberg.

What surprises him is that it didn’t happen to someone a lot sooner.

Nierenberg, who owns a lodge four miles from the end of Stampede Road, said it was just a matter of time before someone drowned trying to cross the river to reach the old Fairbanks city bus made famous in the movie “Into the Wild.”

Since the critically acclaimed film was released three years ago, the bus where 24-year-old Chris McCandless starved to death in 1992 has become a destination for adventurers following in McCandless’ footsteps.

“Honestly, I’m amazed this hasn’t happened earlier,” Nierenberg said Monday by phone.

Whether or not backpacker Claire Jane Ackermann was on her way to the bus is not known, but Nierenberg said practically everyone who hikes the Stampede Trail has the same destination in mind.

“It’s not a casual place to go hiking,” Nierenberg said. “I have absolutely no doubt what she was doing out there.”

Ackermann was trying to wade east to west across the swollen stream with a 27-year-old man from France about 1 p.m. Saturday. The pair were headed in the direction of the bus. The two hikers had tied themselves onto a rope that had been placed across the stream earlier this summer. They lost their footing and were pulled under by the current.

The man told Alaska State Troopers and rangers from Denali National Park and Preserve that he was able to cut himself free from the main line and make his way to the bank, where he dropped his backpack. When he turned back, the man said, Ackermann was under water.

The hiker made his way back and cut her loose from the main line. He floated downstream with her for half a mile. When the man pulled her to shore, Ackermann was unresponsive. The man tried to resuscitate her but was unsuccessful.

The French hiker ran into another hiking party, which reported the incident to troopers and the National Park Service. Ackermann’s body and the French hiker were flown out by a park helicopter Saturday evening.

Bus-bound?

Troopers spokeswoman Megan Peters said a trooper asked the French man whether they were hiking to the old green-and-white bus. “He said ‘no,’” Peters said. “He said they were just hiking in the area.”

“It’s anybody’s guess what they were doing out there,” she said.

The bus, located about 18 miles from the end of Stampede Road off the Parks Highway in Healy, has become a destination for people from around the world since Jon Krakauer wrote his best-selling book “Into the Wild” in 1996. After the book was adapted into a critically acclaimed film starring Emile Hirsch and directed by Sean Penn three years ago, the number of hikers trying to reach the bus increased significantly.

Troopers and park service rangers have conducted several search and rescues involving hikers who have become lost or stranded while hiking to the bus in the last few years.

A month ago, troopers rescued four teenagers who became stranded on their way to the abandoned bus. The teens, ages 16 and 17, got separated after their vehicle became stuck on Stampede Trail. The teens were found by a Fairbanks trooper in a Super Cub and a Cantwell trooper on an ATV.

“Everybody has noticed an increase (in the number of hikers going to the bus) in the last three years,” said Richard Moore, north district ranger for Denali National Park and Preserve. There is “general concern” because many of the people hiking to the bus are inexperienced in the Alaska backcountry, he said.

“We try to give information to people and tell them that they should be prepared and educated about how to travel in the backcountry,” Moore said.

River crossing

The Stampede Trail river crossing is along the park’s northern boundary and park rangers are still trying to determine if Ackermann drowned inside or outside of the park. She was about a half-mile inside the park boundary when she was brought to shore by her companion.

The Teklanika River, about 10 miles from the end of Stampede Road, poses the biggest challenge — and threat — for hikers on the Stampede Trail. The swift, glacier-fed stream is difficult to cross even at low water.

On Saturday, the river was raging because of glacial melting in the warm temperatures, park spokesperson Kris Fister said.

A week and a half ago, two hikers called Nierenberg on their satellite phone when they couldn’t get back across the river after hiking to the bus.

Nierenberg told them they could wade upstream to look for a better place to cross or wait until early morning to cross when the water was at its lowest point. He also gave them the phone number for Era Aviation to call for a helicopter if they wanted to spend the $1,000 or so that would cost.

As it turned out, the two hikers met three others, and the group was able to cross.

For whatever reason, Nierenberg said, he has seen an increase in the amount of bus traffic this summer. Some of the hikers stop at his lodge to talk about the trail and river crossing, but most of them don’t, he said. The ones that stop usually don’t have a clue what they’re doing, Nierenberg said.

“Most of these guys don’t have any conception of river crossings,” he said. “Most of their knowledge is from YouTube.”

Rope or no rope?

The rope across the river, which is still in place, appears to be about 3/8-inch braided, nylon rope and is tied on both ends to small trees and brush, said Moore, who has seen pictures. A rope across the river is not uncommon, the ranger said.

“Every time I’ve gone out there, someone has put up a rope somewhere across the river,” he said. “It either gets broken or taken down or disappears in the winter.”

Using a rope as a crossing aid is risky, Moore said.

“If properly used, it could help, but unfortunately a lot of people don’t use it properly, and it leads to incidents like we had Saturday,” he said.

Most people bring rope to help get them across the river, Nierenberg said. A former park ranger in Denali, Nierenberg said he was trained to cross rivers using walking sticks or a pole pointed upstream held by multiple people.

“Some of these guys are talking about crossing with rope tied around their waist, which is like suicide,” he said.

A rope, he said, “is like tying yourself into a raft in whitewater — it can help you live or it can help you die.”

Nierenberg speculated that a group of five motorcyclists from the Lower 48, who hiked to the bus about three weeks ago, installed the rope. One of the motorcyclists was nearly swept downriver after getting knocked off his feet on the way back, he said.

“He was holding onto the rope and ended up having to let go,” said Nierenberg, who talked to the men before they left and when they returned. “His friends ran downstream and fished him out.

“When he came back here his eyes were pretty wide,” Nierenberg said. “He knew that he had almost died.”

Rangers are still trying to determine whether the rope is inside or outside the park boundary, Moore said.

“Our best guess is one side may be in the park and the other side may not be in the park,” he said.

If the rope is inside the park, Moore said, rangers will remove it. If the rope is on state land, he said, rangers will notify troopers.

What action troopers might take is unclear, Peters said.

“I think we will have to await word from the rangers before that would be assessed,” she wrote in an e-mail. “I don’t know if that would be an appropriate use of our resources, as it would have to be decided if it was an immediate threat to public safety.”

Contact staff writer Tim Mowry at 459-7587.
Comments
(34)
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Ms.PotatoHead
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October 01, 2010
I find it interesting that Jon Nierenberg openly admonishes hiking to the 'bus' in this article. Yet when contacted privately he does nothing to discourage out-of-towners from hiking the trail to the bus. In fact, he has been very willing to give out information on trail conditions without any mention of the dangers he decries in this article. Why the duality?

Either it's not as dangerous as he says, or he's deliberately leading out-of-towners in to what he knows to be life-threatening situations. Which one is it?
Buddha12
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September 28, 2010
My son and I just got back from the trek Sept. 10th this year.

We stopped at the Savage because common sense says "if it don't feel right, don't do it". The Savage was high because of the rain for the past three weeks, therefore the Tek would have been impossible to cross. Yes we wanted to see the bus but not when our lives are at stake.

Key point: As the Alaskans said "know what you're doing before to take the trip". Respect nature.

Very sorry for the young girl. So sad. :(

My heart goes out to her friend.
41yrsinFbxandlovingIt
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August 19, 2010
Huh my comment was removed but all I said was "that it is ugly, and eyesore and just plain littering, get rid of it." I like the "red flag" exercise idea.
Dougkoester
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August 18, 2010
Claire was a shining spirit who was very safe and conscious of dangers in the back country. I knew her for 2 days and she will always be in my heart. I wish all those involved peace and am willing to help her family is need be. Much love
Akfarmer
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August 18, 2010
It is really too bad that lady lost her life to a gamble with nature. In this old world every move we make is fraught with the possibility of a deadly misstep, all to often it takes a life. You cross a street and you get run over by some lady texting the latest gossip, on a hunting trip a unloaded gun kills your best friend and the endless carelessness by those who step beyond their experiences cannot be stopped by bridges, ropes nor laws. For over two decades I have hunted and explored the Stampede Trail, by foot and specially prepared Jeep. I considered the trip my vacation and food gathering period each year and give little thought to the dangers involved because I have hunted all my life in the wilderness and life’s experiences teach you the value of being prepared. Those whose experiences does not include glacier fed rives , boggy terrain and subscribe to the dream of hiking the wilderness of Alaska without a guide, have a suicide pack with mother nature. May god rest the hiker’s soul.
BudO_Fairbanks
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August 18, 2010
Just for the record- I'd wade a river to get to a good fishing hole, or explore an old cabin, but I'll pass on the old bus where McCandless had his "adventure". It's nice to know it's still there, though- It may save someones life someday.
BudO_Fairbanks
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August 18, 2010
I know a lot of you think that no one should ever die, but the one constant in life is that everyone will die.

Some of us will die in accidents, some will die of old age, and some will die having an adventure.

I'm not sure which I'd choose (if I had the choice), but I'm glad I can still take the risk to have an adventure if I choose. It's up to me to try to stay alive as long as possible, and to keep my wits, and plan ahead- not you, or the state, or anyone else, thank you very much.

So take care of your children,nieces,nephews, and friends children, and teach them to make good decisions, and to think before they act- that's what you can do to save someone from an early death....but you can't save us all.

One more thing- there's a lot of old vehicles, busses, mining equipment and cabins scattered throughout Alaska...all are interesting to explore, and I've often wondered how many of those things could possibly ever have gotten to where they ended up. They are part of our history, and most could never be feasably removed....like it or not, so I guess there will always be the opportunity to explore this states rich history (I hope) regardless of the risks.

Watch your step, and carpe diem.
unsolicited_opinion
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August 18, 2010
If, as some writers claim, it would be such a monumental and expensive task removing this bus from its present location - it makes one wonder how the bus ever got out there in the first place.

Darth_Yukon
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August 17, 2010
I think people should be better educated about the conditions of our wilderness before they go out adventuring. I've lived my entire life along the Yukon River, so it doesn't suprise me when outside thrill-seekers come up missing, or show up to a village hungry and seeking shelter.
PMcGraw
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August 17, 2010
I am sorry this woman lost her life. But I am glad she was given the opportunity.

Pat
Arctic_Lynx
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August 17, 2010
Yank the bus or put in wooden vehicle bridges commonly seen in rural areas crossing rivers.

If we put in the wooden bridges there is a bonus for us Alaskans. There are three rivers to go drive out to fish on, to raft on, to go hunting on, etc... This would just provide more access to Alaskans to go to the area to do what Alaskans do. Have fun.

The fact that it would bring a few more tourist dollars to Healy is an added bonus on top of the first bonus.

Besides, if trucks can get out to it, before long the bus will disintegrate from bullet holes of people using it for target practice. Problem SOLVED!
socom
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August 17, 2010
Getting rid of their shrine is not going to save these type people. It will cause them to stop coming here and costing public funds for responding to their self-imposed emergencies. They will stop coming to Interior Alaska and find some other attraction in another part of the world.
rusty_shackleton
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August 17, 2010
guess I oughta repost my comments from the previous article:

maybe we should plow down denali because people die on it every year. like it or not, this bus is a tourist attraction...would it kill the state to recognize this and improve the trail, and build a footbridge over the tek? we have maintained trails all over the state, why not turn this into a legitimate trail and let Healy rake in a little more tourist $$ and prevent any more needless deaths.

ps. judge this woman all you want, but there's more than enough examples of "real" alaskans doing stupid things and getting themselves killed or close to it. It's no different just because its in pursuit of game or a good time on the snowmachine/4-wheeler/ski slopes as opposed to a hike to a bus. check youtube or newsminer archives.

don't even get me started on the stupid things "real alaskans" do in their pickup trucks on the Steese, Johansen, Parks, Richardson, etc. Hwys. every day of the year on their way to and from work/home that result in scores of deaths annually...at least this woman didn't take anyone else out with her...

13khael
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August 17, 2010
I'm divided on this one.

On the one hand the bus is a monument to stupidity and ignorance. It would be very useful to clean out other stupid people from the gene pool.

On the other hand, it's really irritating that a person could do something so dumb and become famous for being dumb. This part of me wants to destroy the bus completely to simply get rid of it.

Decisions, decisions...should I protect people from their own moronic thoughts, or let them die?...

Maybe my first instinct was the correct one...
Samm_redux
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August 17, 2010
Yep... leave it where it is and put up video cameras at the river and link them to YouTube.
seekouttrap
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August 17, 2010
I think the point of these people wanting to see the bus is the fact that it is where it is. Shipping it to Hollywood or even Alaskaland takes away that crazy randomness of a bus in the middle of nowhere, Alaska. They should just put up signs warning of the personal and fatal risks and that proceeding onto the trail is essentially signing your life away, should anything happen to you and that there is no obligation to rescue you.
carstars
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August 17, 2010
Why not put up a 'hikers don't float' board with PFD's on each side of the river. Some signs, maybe some river rope crossing expert could draft a sign to put up a correct method to cross such a river. Keep the adventure but maybe do something to make it safer.
HeyDad
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August 17, 2010
Just leave the bus where it is and if people want to take a risk getting there, that's there business, however, a sign posting a warning of the danger is appropriate. We all take risks in life, otherwise we might as well be a bunch of couch potatoes.
grace3
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August 17, 2010
What's with the Darwin and gene pool comments?

Someone's friend/daughter/sister died under circumstances where we know her last moments were filled with fear. It's obvious this was a risky undertaking, and she may have been foolish, but there's no indication she was a bad person.

The survivor said they weren't hiking to the bus. That may or may not be true, but it's the only statement out there which isn't speculation.

northpolesanta
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August 17, 2010
here's an idea:

get someone to cat-in to the damn bus this winter, drag the thing out and make a display out of it in alaskaland.

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