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When choosing a cookbook for your collection, of course you want one with recipes you will use, but isn’t it fun when the book is also interesting to read? That’s the case with “What’s Cooking, Alaska? 100 Recipes from Alaska’s Favorite Chef.”

To be truthful, though I have lived here 13 years, and written about food most of that time, “Alaska’s favorite chef,” Al Levinsohn, had escaped my notice. That shows how much I know, at least about life in Anchorage. Levinsohn knew from an early age that food was his destiny and he cooked for restaurants in Seattle before settling in Anchorage to man the kitchens at Glacier BrewHouse, Alyeska Prince Hotel and Resort, City Diner and the Crow’s Nest at the Captain Cook before opening his own place, the Kincaid Grill. He also does a cooking show for an Anchorage television station.

The chef’s philosophy of keeping it simple matches my own. “I believe it is more important to focus on cooking the food correctly than making things too complex,” he states in the introduction. Hallelujah!

Arranged like a dinner menu, the book works its way from appetizers to soups, salads, entrees, then desserts. Each section begins with a short, delightful essay on food and life by Levinsohn, headed by a quote about food, such as, “Fish, to taste right, must swim three times — in water, in butter, in wine,” (Polish proverb) and “Only the pure of heart can make good soup,” (Ludwig van Beethoven).

Chapter intros are chock full of intriguing tales such as the one about the Captain Cook restaurant staff having only one day off to go fishing at Alexander Creek. Expectations of a large haul were dashed throughout the entire day, but early the next morning they woke to find silver salmon jamming the water. Quickly filling their coolers, the crew was able to accomplish their mission and make it back to work in time.

“It just goes to show you that sometimes a day can make all the difference and to never give up the dream too soon,” Levinsohn concluded.

I like a cookbook with excellent, usable recipes, catchy stories, color photos and a bit of wisdom to boot. While this book has a nice variety of “untypical” Alaska foods, the author has just enough seafood, game and blueberries for it to qualify as a state cookbook. There are plenty of other great recipes to try, and most ingredients are readily available in Fairbanks. (I’m not too sure about the availability of fresh mussels.)

Reading the recipes makes you want to jump in the kitchen and have a go at Greek-Alaskan Grilled Chicken Gyro with cucumber dill sauce or Mama Wags’ Mighty Molten Crab Artichoke Dip. Even though I highly recommend this cookbook, I don’t suggest reading it late at night when you will be tempted to drag out the pots and pans while everyone else is sleeping.

“What’s Cooking, Alaska?” by Chef Al Levinsohn with Jody Ellis-Knapp was published March 2008 by Sasquatch Books ($19.95).

TASTE OF NEW ORLEANS

BARBECUE SHRIMP

(Levinsohn calls this the best seafood appetizer he ever created)

1/2 cup unsalted butter

1/2 cup olive oil

1/2 cup chili sauce

1 1/2 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon chopped parsley

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

1 1/2 tablespoons liquid smoke

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds Alaska spot shrimp

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Combine all the ingredients except the shrimp. Cook over low heat in a double boiler, whisking often until the butter is melted and all ingredients are well incorporated — do not overheat or boil.

Add the shrimp and gently toss until they are coated. Spread the shrimp in a single layer on a large baking sheet, then place in the oven and roast for 6 to 8 minutes, or until they are heated through and slightly charred.

SANDWICH IN A BOWL

(Bacon, Lettuce and Tomato Soup)

1/2 cup diced yellow onion

1/2 cup diced green bell pepper

1/2 cup diced celery

19-ounce can diced tomatoes, undrained

2 quarts (8 cups) chicken stock

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 pound bacon, cooked crisp and chopped

1/2 head iceberg lettuce, chopped into 1-inch pieces

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook the onion, bell pepper and celery in a large stockpot over medium-low heat until tender, about 5 minutes. Pour in the tomatoes. Bring the mixture to a simmer, then add the chicken stock and cumin. Simmer, uncovered, on low heat for 15 minutes. Stir in the bacon and lettuce.

Season to taste with salt and pepper. Top with croutons and a dollop of mayonnaise, serving immediately.

Reprinted from “What’s Cooking Alaska? 100 Recipes from Alaska’s Favorite Chef” by Chef Al Levinsohn with Jody Ellis-Knapp (Sasquatch Books, 2008).

Nancy Tarnai is a local freelance writer. Send suggestions to ntarnai@alaska.net.