September. Kids are back in school, Halloween décor is lining the shelves in the stores (and in some stores, Christmas), the shops at Alaskaland are beginning to close (alright, alright, Pioneer Park), friends are beginning to restock their freezer with moose meat, and Equinox runners are getting ready for their day.
Me? I am spending a lot of time on my deck. Practically hand-feeding and tucking in my vegetable and herb garden at night, hiding from Lady of the House so that I don’t have to start on the tasks associated with “Darryl’s List of Fall Chores,” and of course getting as much use out of my grill as possible before I have to start dusting off the snow to use it.
My latest grill experience? Gourmet hamburgers.
There’s just something about a hand-mashed hamburger patty, charred on a grill, juicy with just a little pink on the inside. Whether you’re a fan of Mr. Bartley’s Gourmet Burgers across from Harvard in Cambridge, Mass., or you prefer the Arctic Roadrunner in Anchorage, nothing beats a gourmet hamburger. One of my favorites burger joints is the Helvetia Tavern where my sister worked, just outside of Portland, Ore. I spent many-an-evening there in my life B.A. — Before Alaska. Double-patty, with American cheese, homemade fries and an ice-cold local lager. The grief I got to give my sister while she was working and I was relaxing, only made the meal better.
Plan at least one more “Grill Night” before the snow blankets your grill. Whether it’s gourmet or just a simple, humble hamburger, get creative, make it special and have a memorable meal.
So dress up your next burgers, grind up some choice rib eye, moose? Or a combination of both. The choice of beverage at our house these days would be a nice cold Canada Dry Ginger Ale, pick your favorite.
As always, please feel free to e-mail me, I enjoy hearing from you.
Homemade Ketchup
1 can of whole tomatoes in juice (28oz)
1 medium white onion chopped
4 garlic gloves smashed
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup brown sugar
Cook onion and garlic with a pinch of salt until golden brown. Add spices and a pinch of pepper and simmer for another minute. Puree tomatoes in a food processor and add it to the onions and garlic. Add the paste, brown sugar and vinegar. Simmer until the mixture is very thick.
Using a good, thick bottom saucepan, stir frequently and you will prevent it from sticking. Puree the final mixture in a food processor and chill.
This homemade Ketchup will last several weeks and is a good base for your own special sauce.
House Relish
2 cups of finely chopped pickling cucumbers (about 4 cukes)
1/2 cup finely chopped white onion
1/2 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 teaspoon water
In a mesh strainer put your chopped cucumbers and onion, toss with 3/4 teaspoon of salt and let drain over a bowl for 2-3 hours. Wrap cucumber and onion in a couple of layers of cheesecloth and gently squeeze out any remaining liquid.
In a small saucepan bring vinegar, white sugar and a couple of pinches of salt to a boil until the sugar is dissolved; reduce mixture to about 1/2 cup. Add cucumber and onion mixture and simmer for a minute, add cornstarch mixture and simmer for another minute.
Place in a bowl and chill. The relish will last several week refrigerated.
Bleu Cheese Topping
1/4 cup crumbled Bleu Cheese
2/3 cup mayonnaise
1 green onion sliced thin
1 teaspoon fresh parsley
1/2 teaspoon dill
1/2 teaspoon “Beau Monde” seasoning
Combine all ingredients and mix well. You can find the “Beau Monde” seasoning in the spice section of the grocery store. Spice Islands brand makes it.
Darryl Allan is food and beverage director for Fountainhead Hotels, which includes Zach’s Restaurant at Sophie Station Hotel. He enjoys sharing his passion for fun, creative and great-tasting food. E-mail him at fb@fdifairbanks.com.


