Review: Red Couch offers casual dining and hearty sandwiches
by Joyce McCombs /For the News-Miner
Mar 31, 2010 | 1796 views | 2 2 comments | 63 63 recommendations | email to a friend | print
FAIRBANKS -- Located behind Golden Towers in downtown Fairbanks where Second Avenue crosses Dunkel, the Red Couch Bakery and Trading Post offers an interesting feast for both the eyes and the appetite. There’s a lot to see in this compact corner building staffed by some of the friendliest folks in town, as we found out a few weeks ago when we stopped in for a quick bite of lunch.

Sandwiches sounded like a good idea, and ordering couldn’t have been easier. A clearly marked set menu is posted that allows no substitutions, but you can also get creative and have your sandwich built to your own specs using the handy order form at the counter. I can’t resist a good tuna melt (No. 3 on the set menu at $8) and was informed there were no raw onions in the tuna, which was great news. You fill out your order ticket and hand it to the smiling ladies behind the bakery counter (more on that lovely vision in a minute) and find a seat at one of the tiny tables scattered about the restaurant.

Our group also ordered the No. 2 set menu special the Rude Ben, and a build-your-own pastrami ($7.50). We tried various sides (all priced at a reasonable $1 each) including the red potato salad, macaroni salad, beef barley soup and country potato salad.

Beverage choices were nearly overwhelming as there seemed to be bottles and cans tucked in nearly every corner of the restaurant. Sports drinks, sodas, designer water, juices, individual milks and various energy drinks provide enough choices for even the most discerning customer — and that’s before you even get to the espresso, latte and tea counter. Fetch your own and it will be added to your bill when you leave.

When our names were called to pick up our lunches, I was pleased that the grilled tuna and the Rude Ben both had spent some time in a panini press — you have to love those grill marks and the crispy texture a good hot pressing creates. The grilled whole wheat bread (not made on the premesis, but exquisitely fresh) held up fine in my tuna melt, but unfortunately the Rude Ben sandwich on the marble rye disintegrated after just one bite. As messy and difficult as it was to eat, it was declared tasty, with kudos for the generous portion of meat and kraut. The pastrami sandwich disappeared in record time, and this lunch pal was well satisfied with the generous portion of meat “not like some deli’s where there’s more bread than meat.”

The side dishes were declared just fair, and some thought the portions much too small, (though I can’t quibble with the dollar price tag). I especially liked the macaroni salad as the chef had used a light hand with the mayo and the pasta was perfectly cooked and used great seasoning. One of the lunch bunch noticed that our plates were mismatched, and we couldn’t decide if the Red Couch was going for the shabby chic, retro look or just chose to not invest in coordinating dinnerware. There was general agreement that going with red dishes or even red, paper lined baskets would elevate things a bit. You also have to fetch your own utensils and napkins, which doesn’t bother me, but did annoy another customer who expected more of a full service experience. The vote around our table was mixed on the atmosphere. Some said it felt too crowded and there was “too much to look at” while others thought the artwork, bright colors, tiny tables and cozy space provided lots of lively topics for conversation.

After lunch, we were all ready to visit the bakery counter, where there was plenty to choose from. In the big bakery case up front you’ll find an ever changing assortment of goodies like the famous Red Couch cinnamon pull aparts, carrot cake, cheesecake, German chocolate cake, brownies, cobblers, tarts and all kinds of interesting bits and pieces sold by the slice (from $3 to $4.50). We chose a German chocolate cake slice, a small blueberry cobbler and several kinds of cookies to have with our after lunch coffee and tea. The cake was fine, but unremarkable, the cookies ($3.50 for a dozen, 30 cents each) come in many flavors including oatmeal raisin, chocolate chip, classic sugar cookies, snickerdoodles, chocolate chip mint and peanut butter.

They all seemed over baked and much too crunchy for my taste, but another lunch pal preferred the crisp snap of each bite, and I was told I was “clearly mistaken — these are great!” The one cookie I did love was the classic thumbprint with a dab of apricot jelly in the center. Light and flavorful and soft all at the same time, this one was a real winner. I had high hopes for the blueberry cobbler, which appeared to be made with real Alaska blueberries. A peek under the topping showed the tiny little gems lurking in a lovely thick sauce, and after I have to admit I was disappointed, despite trying very hard to like my few bites. All I could taste was sugar and cornstarch thickener, and no blueberry zing at all.

I’ve come to the conclusion that for what it is, the Red Couch is just right. It’s not high fashion or cutting edge dining; it’s a neighborhood deli and bakery with a coffee shop sensibility that suits it’s out of the way location. You couldn’t ask for friendlier, more eager to please staff and there’s an earnestness about the whole place that is quite appealing. And there truly is a red couch (and a chair) just waiting for you to relax on with a fine cup of Fair Trade coffee. Best of all, the Red Couch is a place to seek out if you like to support local businesses. You can be sure these fine folks will appreciate your business and give you their best effort every time.

Joyce McCombs considers reservations her favorite thing to make for dinner. She lives and writes in Delta Junction with her husband of 25 years, Steve.





Comments
(2)
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TacoQueen
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October 06, 2010
What a dump and the food is either dried out or spoiled. Oh, the "fresh" stuff they have every day has always been left in the oven too long!
MusherMikey
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May 29, 2010
Tried it again this week....still crap food with no improvement. Final chance (this was the 3rd). Won't go back to the dump!!!

Will try River City Espresso next.
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